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La Paz - More Then Great
By Jonathan Roldan
The city of La Paz has often been called the "gateway to the Sea of Cortez." Surely its history bears this out as native tribes, Spanish conquistadors and English pirates in the past, and today, modern travelers and sports enthusiasts discover this jewel of a city on the east coast of Baja.
Located a mere two hour plane trip from Los Angeles and serviced by daily flights, La Paz (The Peace), is a premier destination on the Baja peninsula. Many are surprised to find that this city of 170,000 residents has a little of everything and probably the best of everything. The 4th largest city in Baja, La Paz boasts the activities and fun of Cabo San Lucas 100 miles to the south, but on a more muted stage without the hustle, bustle and noise. It is the capital of the state of Baja California Sur, boasting the seat of government, a university, museums, cultural activities, intense commerce and a burgeoning tourism base, yet much of the city still takes a siesta at mid-day! Many claim that La Paz possesses the "colonial feel" of old Mexico as they stroll the aged cobblestone streets and palm-lined seafront where breezes off the Bay of La Paz carry the essence of a time seemingly lost to modern society.
The Spanish realized early on that the natural geography of the area would be important to their colonial aims. Unlike many of their attempts in other parts of the New World, the area that was to become La Paz did not bow easily to the Spanish crown. Spanish soldiers, explorers and missionaries fell victim to their own follies as well as the stubborn and hostile resistance of local tribes and the unforgiving nature of the Baja desert. Numerous attempts to colonize the area were abandoned and it was not until the 1800's that the Spanish could claim any sort of permanence.
Using the natural harbor of La Paz Bay, the Spanish soon were shipping gold, pearls and other riches from the New World back to Europe. As time went on, La Paz became famous for the rich pearl industry that sprang from the warm shallow waters of the bay. The quality of the pearls became known worldwide. The pearl industry suddenly collapsed in the late 30's just prior to the outbreak of World War II.
Today, La Paz, is a dynamic city that moves at it's own pace. The malecón is the center for hotels, restaurants, shops, and nightlife. It's the main thoroughfare for family life in the city as couples, families and tourists promenade up and down the bustling palm-lined boulevard taking in the beautiful bay, numerous watering holes, café eateries, mariachi music and other activities. If something is going on in La Paz, it's probably happening on the malecón. Much like old "cruise nights" in American cities, weekend evenings are often spent by young people driving up and back along the malecon or parking along the beach for al fresco tailgate parties and to wave at friends in other vehicles.
La Paz is a "real city" in every sense of the word. Tourism does not turn the economic wheels and therefore, the visitor will find real people doing real things...playing on the beach...late evening meals...walks with the family...movies and late night dancing. La Paz is not plagued by the tourist traps found in many other Mexican cities. Visit a restaurant and chances are, instead of a room full of tourists, visitors are likely to find their dining companions are locals. Hawkers of "time share" condos do not inhabit every doorway. Begging by street people is rare. Loud rock music does not blare from every club or alleyway.
While La Paz does not depend on tourism for sustenance, it is a mecca for water sports enthusiasts. Fishing is the primary draw for many Baja visitors and, not surprisingly, most anglers name Cabo San Lucas, the East Cape and Loreto as primary destinations. Many, however, are discovering that La Paz might just be the best-kept secret of all. Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez the "aquarium of the world" and with more than 700 species of categorized fish, it's easy to see why. For game fishers, the warm blue waters of the Sea of Cortez off La Paz hold world-class marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dorado, amberjack, yellowtail, roosterfish and many other sought-after species.
The natural geography of the city means that anglers have access to these rich waters without the need for big expensive cruisers or extensive and expensive gear. In fact, 90 percent of the fishing in La Paz waters is done from sturdy skiffs called "pangas" that ply the waters north of La Paz and the various islands such as Espiritu Santo and Cerralvo all the way down to the southeastern area around Las Arenas and Punta Pescadero. Areas such as the El Bajo Seamount, La Reyna, the Rock Highway, Punta Sur, the Gap, the Buoys and the Lighthouse are recognized as some of the hottest fishing spots in the Sea of Cortez.
Second only to fishing is the incomparable diving and snorkeling to be found in the La Paz area. During prime season from June to October, the ocean can be a bath-warm 85 degrees with visibility exceeding 100 plus feet. Some have described it as "swimming through blue air". Miles of shoreline beckon the snorkeler to don mask and fins to check out the many reefs and nearby sealifts. A number of excellent dive operations can take the visitor to Los Isolotes, the famous sea-lion colony where more than 300 sea lions and their pups happily cavort around swimmers and snorkelers. For the certified tank-diver, the possibilities are endless with the opportunity to swim and see dolphin, whale sharks, sea turtles, eels, numerous varieties of whales and giant Pacific manta rays. For more advanced divers, the El Bajo Seamount is one of only 3 places in the world where hundreds of hammerhead sharks congregate and divers can be treated to a world-class diving experience.
Next time discover my favorite place, La Paz. It has something for everyone!
Jonathan Roldan lives in La Paz most of the year. You can reach him to talk fishing or if you'd like him to arrange fishing, diving, hotels or other adventures at (626) 333-3355 or riplipboy@aol.com. His website is www.tailhunter-international.com.
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